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EXPLORATION
The exploration stage of the research phase involved experimentation with paper folding, fabric pleating, 3D pleat samples, and 3D conceptual garments, as well as testing shape memory alloy wire (muscle wire), thread, and magnets as actuators.
Folding / pleating experiments
Paper Folding
Using folding templates from Paul Jackson’s “Folding Techniques for Designers from Sheet to Form”, I folded over 100 paper samples from 5 different folding technique categories, ranging from basic pleats to V pleats to parabola pleats (see images 1-5). The top 10 samples (see images 6-15) were selected and analyzed based on the type of motion/transformation demonstrated and the potential for application in garments.
Fabric Pleating
Using paper templates made from manila paper, various types of fabrics were sandwiched between templates in order to create the pleat samples (see images 1-3). The steaming and baking methods were first tested (see image 4), followed by tests involving different types of fabric stiffeners (see image 5) and a variety of fabrics with different fiber contents (see images 6-11).
3D Fabric Pleating
Using CLO 3D design software, the top 10 paper samples with interesting textures and promising applications were replicated as 3D models. Each of the samples were tested using 3 different fold strengths ー 5 being the lowest strength, 50 being the medium strength, and 100 being the highest strength.
3D Conceptual Garments
Using CLO 3D design software, a conceptual garment exploration was conducted in order to examine the potential applications of the previously rendered pleated samples. Pleat Sample 5.1 - 4 was incorporated into the sleeves on a garment since this type of pleating creates a natural arch when folded. Pleat Sample 4.3.2 - 2 was integrated into a garment as an expandable/collapsible dart.
Technology / Material Experiments
Magnet
As the first method of expanding / collapsing the pleated fabric, magnets were tested, using muslin and then organza. In this exploration, 1mm by 2mm cylindrical magnets were sandwiched between two layers of pleated fabric at the crease lines and held in place through hand stitching.
Thread
As an alternate approach to creating the expanding / collapsing motion in the pleated fabric, a thread / string based method was tested. This test involved threading a string through the pleated fabric and pulling or releasing the thread in order to expand or collapse the fabric.
Shape Memory Alloy (Muscle) Wire
As the third method of creating the expanding / collapsing motion in the pleated fabric, 0.006” Flexinol wire HT and 0.008” Flexinol wire LT were tested. For this exploration, the wire was sandwiched between two layers of pleated muslin and stitched in place.
Exploration Research Document
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